Clover in lawns
By Muzamil Ali · Last updated
Clover was in lawn seed mixes until selective herbicides made it a weed by convention. Both methods, and the honest case for and against, on one page.
Two completely different groups of people search for clover in lawns. One wants it gone. The other wants to plant it deliberately. Most sites write those as unrelated pages, and they are wrong to, because the two questions share a single set of facts — and each group is better off knowing what the other one knows.
So this page gives both, honestly, including the parts each side would rather not hear.
Clover became a weed by convention, not by agronomy
This is the fact that reframes the whole question, and it is not disputed.
Clover used to be a standard ingredient in lawn seed mixes. It was included on purpose, because it does three useful things: it fixes its own nitrogen from the air, it stays green through dry spells when grass has gone brown and dormant, and it flowers for pollinators.
What changed was not the plant. Selective herbicides arrived — products that kill broadleaf plants while leaving grasses unharmed. Clover is a broadleaf. A lawn treated with one loses its clover and keeps its grass, and once that was possible, the uniform all-grass lawn became the thing to aim for, and clover became one of the things that a weedkiller removes.
So "clover is a lawn weed" is a statement about the last few decades of lawn fashion and product design, rather than about whether clover is good or bad for turf. That is worth knowing whichever direction you came here from:
- If you are here to remove it, you should at least know you are removing something that was put there on purpose, for reasons that still hold.
- If you are here to sow it, you are not doing anything novel. You are undoing a convention.
None of which means you should not remove it. Plenty of good reasons to, below. It means the decision is yours to make on the merits rather than inherited.
Why it is in your lawn
Clover appears where grass is not dense enough to exclude it, and it does especially well where nitrogen is short. That follows directly from the nitrogen fixing: on hungry soil, grass is struggling and clover is not, because clover brings its own supply.
This is the single most useful diagnostic on the page. A lawn with a lot of clover is usually telling you it is thin, or underfed, or both. Which is also why the non-chemical removal method works — and why a herbicide alone tends to be temporary, because it removes the plant without changing the conditions that favoured it.
How to add nitrogen to soil has the sourced figures for feeding, and is the page to read alongside this one if you are removing clover.
If you want it gone
Two routes, and the first is slower and more durable than the second.
Change the conditions
Feed the lawn. This is the main one, and it attacks the advantage rather than the plant. A well-fed lawn grows densely enough to shade and crowd clover, and removes the nitrogen deficit that gave it the edge.
Mow higher. Clover grows low and spreads sideways; grass grows upright. Cutting short favours the clover by letting light down to it. Raising the height tips the competition back.
Overseed the thin patches. Bare ground is where clover establishes. Filling it with grass first is the most direct form of prevention, and how long does grass seed take to grow covers the timing, the watering and the rates — including why the published seeding rates disagree by as much as a factor of two.
Hand-pull small patches, ideally after rain, when the whole plant including its roots lifts rather than snapping. Clover spreads by creeping stems that root as they go, so a patch left with roots in the ground regrows. This is genuinely practical for a few patches and hopeless for a lawn full of it.
Expect this route to take a season or two. It is also the route that does not come back, because the conditions are different afterwards.
Spot-treat it
A selective broadleaf herbicide kills clover and spares grass, which is the whole reason it is now called a weed.
Two things worth saying plainly. Spot-treat rather than blanket-spray where you can: you are treating patches, not the lawn, and the smaller the treated area the better. And it is temporary unless you also change the conditions — if the lawn is still thin and underfed next year, clover returns to the same places, because those places are still where clover wins.
Follow the product label for rate and timing, which is the only figure on this page we are not going to give you: herbicide rates are product-specific and legally controlled, and they differ by jurisdiction. The label is the authority, not us.
If you want to sow it
Also a perfectly good decision, and here are the downsides first, because most pages selling clover seed do not lead with them.
It is slippery underfoot when wet. Noticeably more than grass — the leaves are broad, smooth and hold water. On a path line, a slope or steps, that is a real consideration rather than a quibble.
It flowers, and the flowers attract bees. That is the point for pollinators and a genuine problem where small children play barefoot, or anyone in the household reacts badly to stings. Mowing keeps the flowers down, but a clover lawn that is never allowed to flower has given up one of its main advantages.
It patches unevenly. Clover spreads by creeping stems and colonises in drifts rather than forming an even sward. A pure clover lawn looks mottled, and it does not take wear the way a dense grass turf does.
Which points at the answer most people actually want: mix it into grass rather than replacing the grass. A lawn with clover through it gets the nitrogen, the drought colour and the flowers, while the grass gives the uniformity and the wear tolerance. That is, not coincidentally, what the old seed mixes did.
How to sow it into existing lawn
- Mow short, shorter than usual, to get light down to soil level.
- Open the surface. Scarify, or rake hard with a spring-tine rake. Seed needs contact with soil, and a thatch layer holds it above the soil where it will not establish.
- Broadcast the seed. Clover seed is very fine and hard to spread evenly by hand — mix it with dry sand and sow the mixture, which makes the coverage visible and far more even.
- Do not bury it. A light rake and then firm contact is all it wants.
- Keep the surface damp while it establishes, on exactly the same terms as grass seed: little and often, and a single dry spell during germination loses the sowing.
Timing is the same as for cool-season grass seed — late summer into early autumn, or spring — because the requirement is the same: warm soil and consistent moisture. The germination page has the published windows.
One thing to check before you sow: whether you have used a selective broadleaf herbicide on that lawn recently. Some persist in the soil long enough to kill a clover sowing, and the label will say. Sowing clover into ground still carrying a broadleaf herbicide wastes the seed.
The honest summary
Clover is not a disease and removing it is not a repair. It is a plant that does several useful things and a few inconvenient ones, and the lawn fashion of the last few decades happens to run against it.
If you want a uniform, hard-wearing, conventional lawn: remove it, and feed and thicken the grass so it does not come back. If you want a lawn that needs less feeding, stays greener in drought and works for pollinators: sow it, and accept that it is slipperier, buzzier and patchier.
What does not work is treating it as a mystery. Clover in a lawn is nearly always a message about density and nitrogen, and that message is worth reading before you decide what to do about it.
Related reading
- How long does grass seed take to grow? — timing, watering and seeding rates, whether you are thickening grass to crowd clover out or sowing into bare ground.
- Can you mow wet grass? — relevant here, since a clover lawn is the slippery one.
- How to add nitrogen to soil — the sourced feeding figures, and the other half of the clover answer.
- Grass seed calculator — for the overseeding quantities.