Grass seed rates vary more between species than most people expect — by a factor of fifteen across the common ones — because seed size differs so much. This calculator uses per-species rates rather than a single average, for either a new lawn from bare soil or an overseed of existing turf.
How to use it
- Enter the lawn area. For an awkward shape, break it into rectangles and add them up, or measure the whole plot and subtract the house, drive and beds.
- Choose your grass. If you are overseeding and do not know what is there, match the climate: cool-season grasses in the northern US, Canada and the UK; warm-season in the southern US and Australia.
- Say what you are doing. Bare soil takes the full establishment rate; existing turf takes the lower overseeding rate.
How it is calculated
pounds of seed = rate (lb per 1,000 sq ft) x (area / 1000)
The whole question is which rate. Rates come from
data/grass-seed-rates.ts, one figure per species for a new lawn and one for
overseeding, and the note under the result explains anything particular about that
grass.
A worked example
A 5,000 square foot lawn, new, in tall fescue:
- Rate: 7 lb per 1,000 sq ft
- Seed needed: 7 x (5,000 / 1,000) = 35 pounds
Overseeding the same lawn instead uses the lower rate of 5 lb per 1,000 sq ft, so 25 pounds. Switch the species to Kentucky bluegrass and the new-lawn figure drops to 12.5 pounds, because bluegrass seed is so much smaller that a pound goes far further.
Seeding rates by grass type
| Grass | Season | New lawn | Overseeding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kentucky bluegrass | Cool | 2.5 lb | 1.5 lb |
| Tall fescue | Cool | 7 lb | 5 lb |
| Fine fescue | Cool | 4.5 lb | 3 lb |
| Perennial ryegrass | Cool | 7 lb | 5 lb |
| Annual ryegrass | Cool | 9 lb | 6 lb |
| Creeping bentgrass | Cool | 1 lb | 0.5 lb |
| Bermudagrass, hulled | Warm | 1.5 lb | 1 lb |
| Zoysiagrass | Warm | 1.5 lb | 1 lb |
| Centipedegrass | Warm | 0.4 lb | 0.25 lb |
| Bahiagrass | Warm | 6 lb | 4 lb |
| Buffalograss | Warm | 4 lb | 2 lb |
All figures are pounds per 1,000 square feet. These are typical published rates and worth checking against your own extension service, which will also give the right sowing window for your area.
Tips and common mistakes
Sow half in one direction and half at right angles. A single pass always leaves stripes. Two passes crossing each other is the simplest way to get even coverage from a spreader or by hand.
Keep the surface damp, not the soil soaked. Germinating seed dies if the top half inch dries out even once. That usually means a light watering once or twice a day for two or three weeks, not a deep soak every few days.
Do not fertilise heavily at sowing. A starter fertilizer with phosphorus helps root development, but a nitrogen-heavy feed encourages the weeds that are competing with your seedlings.
Check the seed label for coating and filler. Some products are a mix of seed, inert matter and mulch, so a given weight contains less actual seed than a bag of pure seed. The percentages are on the label.
Buy fresh seed. Germination falls off after a couple of years in storage, and a bargain bag of old seed is not a bargain.